Abstract

The growing emphasis on sustainability in fashion and textile systems has renewed interest in natural dyes as both ecological colorants and expressive design tools. This study investigates a design-oriented approach to sustainable screen-printing by combining plant-based dyestuffs with conceptual pattern development and scientific performance analysis. It assumes that natural dyes can function not only as environmentally responsible alternatives to synthetic colorants but also as active design materials within contemporary textile printing. Accordingly, the study asks how dye type and fiber type influence color performance, fastness behavior, and fiber–dye interaction in screen-printed natural fabrics. Natural dyes derived from Rubia cordifolia (Rubia®), Punica granatum peel (Mallow®), and Morus alba leaves (Leafy Green®) were applied to 100% cotton, linen, and silk fabrics through an environmentally responsible screen-printing process. A garlic-inspired motif was developed to support the study’s visual and conceptual framework by representing circularity, low-impact agriculture, and cultural sustainability. Colorimetric properties (L*, a*, b*, K/S, ΔE) were measured by spectrophotometric analysis, while washing and rubbing fastness were evaluated according to international standards. FTIR spectroscopy was used to examine fiber–dye interaction mechanisms, and statistical significance was tested through two-way ANOVA. The findings show that fabric type is the dominant factor affecting color performance, with cotton exhibiting the highest color strength due to its cellulose-rich and hydroxyl-dense structure. Rubia® produced the darkest and most saturated tones, whereas Mallow® yielded lighter pastel-like shades. FTIR results indicated that dye fixation occurred primarily through non-covalent interactions, explaining the balance between aesthetic richness and moderate fastness. The study offers a replicable model for environmentally responsible, design-oriented textile production that integrates material innovation with cultural and visual narratives.

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